The Ultimate Guide to Notches ✂️learn pattern making

by Ellie Wilcox

In this article, we will explore the different types of notches commonly used in patternmaking, including the V notch, T notch, I notch, and Double notch. By understanding the various types of notches available and how to use them properly, you can ensure your patterns are perfectly tailored to your designs. In my previous article, I wrote about seam allowance; if you missed that post, you can read about it here. What are Notches?

Notches are an essential element of patternmaking in the fashion industry. They are used to indicate how pattern pieces should be sewn together, and they come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Notches are small markings on fabric that help sewers keep track of where they are sewing. Notches can be used to mark the location of seams, darts, pleats, and other details that need to be sewn together. They can also ensure that two pieces of fabric line up correctly when sewn together.

How do they Help with Sewing?

Notches are an excellent tool for any sewer, as they make it easier to keep track of where you are in your project and ensure that everything is lined up correctly. An expert pattern maker will allocate notches on a pattern in such a way that helps the sewer understand what pieces go together as well as in what order. Many times a single notch is used to indicate the front and a double notch is used to indicate the back; but using single notches and double notches strategically can also indicate what needs to be sewn next. Types of Notches

If you've ever sewn using a home sewing pattern you are most likely familiar with a V notch and a double notch. Here are some notches you might not have encountered:

• T Notch

• I Notch

• V Notch

• U Notch

• Box Notch

T Notches are very common in industry patterns. The T shape is helpful and is simply marked with a small slit or it can be marked with chalk. Cutting a slit in the fabric is the fastest way as it goes through multiple layers. The top of the "T" indicates how deep the slit should be cut. The I Notch is treated similarly to the T Notch. Many prefer the T notch since it's unmistakable. Note that an I notch could appear as a stray mark and may go unnoticed.

V Notches take an additional snip to cut, so they aren't used as commonly, but they are very helpful in marking important areas of interest. If there are already many notches on a pattern, a V notch may be useful to prevent confusion. It can also be helpful to mark where a seam will join a notch or to indicate the top of the piece. U Notches are less common on cad patterns but very common on paper patterns and cardstock. A pattern notcher is a tool that cuts U-shaped notches into paper; this is an essential tool that every pattern maker should own. The U shape then acts as an opening for snips or chalk. The U notch looks the same as a T or I notch in the end. Box Notches are a lot like V notches in that they are rarely used due to the meticulous cutting but can be helpful for unique applications. V notches and Box notches can help create gathers and rouching since these notches are easier to see among a 'sea' of fabric.

Other Notch Details to Note

Outside Notches - It's also important to mention that the V notch and Box notch can be outward-facing notches, meaning that they can be on the outside of the seam allowance. Outside notches can be trimmed off during serging. Cutting a notch to the outside is helpful to prevent damage to the seam allowance. Angles

Typically a notch will go into a seam at a 90-degree angle, perpendicular to the seam line. Every once in a while, the notch may follow a seam and create a unique angle. This angle can help the sewer align the fabric properly and will help eliminate unwanted puckers or gathers in sewing.

Ease - Notches can be used to indicate how much fabric to ease in when sewing. Sometimes in sewing, one side is intentionally longer than the other. This is sometimes used when creating gathers or commonly used in sleeves along the sleeve cap as ease.

Conclusion

Adding notches to a pattern takes a few extra steps, but it helps make the sewing process easier, and less confusing. It also helps the end result look neater and prevents common issues with sewing. Understanding how to apply notches to a pattern will ultimately help your product get sewn more efficiently and ensure your pattern comes together perfectly every time.

Do you have any unique methods for marking notches? ✂️ Have you encountered any interesting ways to use them in the cut-and-sew process of manufacturing goods? I would love to know your thoughts! Connect with me via Instagram and share your insight with me. Give me a follow to stay in touch!

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About the author:

Ellie Wilcox is the founder and CEO of Digitech Design which helps entrepreneurs with apparel design and development. Providing services in 3D renderings created in Clo3D based on cad patterns and sewn prototypes. Ellie started working in fashion and production in 2011 and has implemented 3D samples since 2016.

Using 3D reduces the number of physical prototypes to get to market and lessens the fashion industry's carbon footprint. 📲 Follow me on Instagram @DesigningwithEllie ‍👩🏻‍💻 You can subscribe to the blog to learn more and stay updated on future posts!