Hey there, future pattern-making pros! If you're anything like I was when I started in the world of pattern-making, you might be wondering what is grading and how on earth to make grading less of a headache. Well, fear not because today we're diving into the realm of grading in CAD (Computer-Aided Design) and exploring some seriously game-changing tools to make your life easier. So, grab your favorite beverage, cozy up, and let's get into it!
Getting Started with Pattern-Making in CAD
Embracing Technology
Let's kick things off with a quick chat about CAD and why it's a total game-changer. Back in the day, when I went to fashion school and we were first introduced to pattern making, it was all about traditional pattern drafting using a pencil, some rulers, and endless rolls of dotted paper and cardstock. Then once we got in the groundwork in physical pattern-making we were introduced to digital pattern-making, and let me tell you, it's like going from a horse-drawn buggy to a sports car.
Why Grading is Important
Before we dive into the tech stuff, let's remind ourselves why grading is so crucial. Grading is the unsung hero that transforms a beautifully crafted pattern into various sizes, ensuring that everyone – no matter their size – can rock any style. It's about maintaining proper proportions, and size inclusivity. The largest size must fit as well as the smallest size, and it's just as important to test fit on these sizes as it is on the base size. Doing so will result in fewer returns and happier customers and who doesn't want that?
Navigating CAD Tools
Traditional vs. CAD Grading
Now, let's talk about the elephant in the room – the battle between traditional and CAD-based grading. Picture this: I used to spend hours hunched over tables, wielding pencils and erasers, marking each size on its separate cardstock to end up with dozens (and dozens) of pattern pieces that needed to be painstakingly labeled and sorted. Misplacing a piece, or worse, using the wrong one meant disaster! But with digital pattern-making? It's literally like magic. It's so much easier now, with more precision at your fingertips, it produces less waste and takes up less space! #Efficiency
Essential CAD Tools
So, you've decided to hop on the CAD train. Awesome choice! Now, let's talk tools. From software to nifty features, I've got you. I remember my "aha" moment when I discovered the magic of Clo3D. It's like finding a cheat code for a video game – everything just clicks. You can check out my latest YouTube video where I walk you through the essential grading tools in Clo3D HERE. I recommend Clo3D because it's affordable for aspiring pattern-making freelancers and it's one of the easiest to learn in my opinion.
Size Range Development
Creating a wide size range is a bit like juggling – tricky but doable. You might face some challenges when expanding your size range, but more and more brands are beginning to offer a wide breadth of sizes and therefore expanding their market. But it's not as easy as just punching in a few numbers. My early days were filled with trial and error, with many rounds of iterations. But with Clo3D, you can preview your size range on an avatar size lineup to review all your sizes at a glance. This can be done digitally as a preliminary check, which helps eliminate some of those rounds of revisions.
Real Bodies vs. Avatars
The process of testing on real bodies should not be entirely omitted since avatars can't speak for themselves and let us know how a garment feels. At least not yet. The feel of the fabric needs to be assessed as well as the process of putting the garment on. Sitting and moving one's arms should not be restricted by our clothing.
Learning Pattern Grading
Let's be Real - this journey isn't a stroll in the park
Personal story time: one of my first jobs working in fashion had me questioning everything, but overcoming those hurdles? That's where the real growth happens. I studied pattern making in fashion school but without giving away my age, let's just say it had been a while since I took Pattern Drafting I & II. I still had all my notebooks and textbooks so I was able to go back and give myself a review over a few weekends.
Continuous Learning and Skill Development
Staying relevant means embracing continuous learning. Whether it's mastering something completely new or expanding on some of the skills you already have, the journey doesn't have to end. I've been in this game for years, and trust me, every day is a school day. During my first couple of months at one of my first jobs in fashion, I had my nose in "Grading Techniques for Fashion Design" by Price Zamkoff while traveling on the weekends, going to the park, in the car, and in line at the grocery store. Wherever I could, I was taking notes like I was back in school. I felt like I had no idea what I was doing but I was determined to figure it all out and make sense of the puzzle.
4 Ways to Grade in Clo3D
Mastering Pattern Grading Lingo
Graded Measurements
This can be presented as a chart or table, usually referring to essential points of measurement on the garment. It's ideal to designate whether the measurement is being taken with the garment laying flat or when the measurement is referred to as a circumference measurement, otherwise, you could end up with only half of the amount desired or doubled. Another reason to hire a pattern maker or grader to help with the tech stuff.
Size Steps
The distance between each size. In other words, how much the size grows or how much it's reduced in order to create each size.
Grade Rules
Grade rules can also be presented as a chart, or can accompany a pattern file as a text file which can be imported into cad software. They contain the data for each grade point. These grade rules contain the data for how much movement occurs in the x and y axis, the movement may be in the positive or negative direction and there can be different amounts designated for each size. If a grade has a 0 value, it means that the point doesn't move, or the grade is "held".
Grade Point
Grade points are the key points to grade. They can be determined by the Graded Measurements. Typical grade points include neck point, high shoulder point, low shoulder point, chest, hem, etc.
In Conclusion
Before we bid adieu, let's recap the magic of CAD. We've covered the basics, delved into size range development, and mastered easy grading techniques. Now, you're armed with the knowledge to take on the pattern-making world with confidence.
Embrace the Evolution
To all you future pattern-making maestros, the fashion world is evolving, and so are you. Embrace the tech, learn, grow, and remember – the journey is just as exciting as the destination. Happy grading, and may your patterns be ever in your favor!
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